We appreciate the support from all our customers + ensure they have a journey to remember. 

We are a small family run business and therefore take a great deal of care and create a personal relationship with all our customers. 

Follow their journeys with us and listen to their experience with U K L S.


Harry Jandu - Wolverhampton - The Square One - Grey Oak

We had our stairs replaced however the joiner did a terrible job and unfortunately we thought we would be stuck with them forever.

UK Laminate Stairs were recommended to us by a stairs manufacturer in Wolverhampton.

We went to their showroom to see the various options for the laminates and to get more information on what was available.

The staff were very friendly and very knowledgeable. Both Nat and Gemm were very helpful, right from pre-sales to actually delivering the laminate. Nat even came out to see us at our home with laminate samples that we could see and try on the stairs so that we could see exactly how it would look.

Gemm even agreed a suitable payment plan with us and they arranged for a fitter for us as well.

UK Laminate Stairs have enhanced the stairs so much that they are now the best feature of our hallway.

I would 100% recommended them to anyone they will definitely enhance your stairs and provide excellent customer service and an excellent fitter.

See the review: Facebook




Robert Dunsby  - Oxfordshire - DIY fitting - The Square One - Rustic Oak

Hello Gemm

I have attached some photos of my stairs and have included some feedback below regarding the fitting, as requested.

  1. I purchased a Titan table saw and Titan mitre saw from Screwfix for this job. I used the table saw for the longways cuts of the riser packing and the laminate, and the mitre saw for the width cuts of both. It is worth investing in a new blade for the mitre saw that has as many teeth as possible so that you get a fine cut with less risk of the laminate chipping. Only use the table saw for cutting actual laminate where the cut edge of the back edge of a step will be hidden by the bottom edge of the riser above it, and the top edge of the riser will be hidden by the nosing over it. This is because I found that it is very difficult to cut the laminate with a table saw without chipping it. In hindsight, it would have been easy enough to cut it with a fine tooth handsaw without chipping it, but it is much better if you can cover the edges regardless as described above.
  2. As can be seen in one of the photos, I packed out the riser and trimmed the nosing level with the packing. I used a jigsaw to cut the original nosing level and finished off the bit either side that I couldn't get to with the jigsaw with a chisel. This is messy work and noisy work so I fitted the packing and trimmed the nosing on all of the steps before starting to fit the laminate. I used 22mm chipboard flooring from Wickes for the riser packing although 18mm plywood would have probably done just as well.
  3. For the bottom edge of the laminate risers, I very carefully trimmed off with some fine adjustment of the table saw the 'fixing' part of the flooring so that I was left with an uncut and clean edge of the laminate on the riser to cover the edge of laminate on the step below. In other words, you get a very neat join between the riser and the step below, and of course the nosing also covering the top edge of the riser!
  4. To minimise any gaps between the side edges of the laminate and the stringers, I cut the nosing and the flooring part of the step to be either a tight fit or very slight wider than the width required (the width of the step between the stringers). Using a flat piece of wood in my hand, I was then able to very finely sand off the edges of the nosing and the step to get a pretty good fit. This is quite hard and takes a lot of repeated sanding some off, checking the fit, sanding some off, checking again, etc. I did the hard work with a 60 grit role of sandpaper moving up to 80 and then 120 grit.
  5. As you get close to fitting a step, I found it best to join the nosing and the flooring part of the step together so that you fit it as one piece, and also as part of the sanding process you can even off any difference on the sides where the nosing joins the flooring part of the step.
  6. To cut the laminate around the newel posts, I first created a template out of some stiff card and then draw around the template onto the laminate. I then cut along the marks using a hacksaw, but again it is worth cutting it a bit too large as it is easier to sand some off to make it fit reasonably nicely without too much of a gap. 
  7. I used several tubes of EVO-STIK 'STICKS LIKE SH*T' CLEAR 290M as the adhesive for fixing the laminate steps and risers. I probably used way too much for each step, but on the other hand you don't want to risk these things coming away any time soon. Also, I roughed up the back of the laminate and the surface area that I was fixing to to get good adhesion, not forgetting to wipe the dust off first with white spirit.
  8. I think that covers everything. I took as much time as I needed and did it over several weekends. You get better the more you do so that by the last step you are pretty much an expert!

Thanks again for everything and best wishes,




Sue + Mark - Staffordshire - The Square One - Classic Oak


Hi Natalie

We are absolutely thrilled with them thank you.  I will send you some photos but I am waiting until we've finished decorating which will be just after Easter. 

Best wishes Sue